Southern Oregon-Frershwater Friends Aquatic Arts & Education Center

Join The Community's Of Southern Oregon On An Amazing Freshwater Aquatic Adventure!

This is Only A Small Example Of What We Could Have!

My Life is dedicated to sharing the Alien worlds thats thrive in our beautiful freshwaters from around the world. Join Freshwater Friends and the Southern Oregon Communities in Raising donations to Make this dream a Reality.

Our Recreational and other business's could really benifit from this project, We could discover and use the most advance systems in the world and set a new records. We would like to see the facility as enviromentally sound as possible from solar and Hydro electric power sorces to renwable natural fertilizers for local farmers.

Food Courts and gift shops selling Localy Made Arts and Crafts inspired by our beautiful southern oregon wild life.


Imagine a day in the life of a travler.....
Mom,Dad, son and Daughter. Taveling to see grandma, along the way they are passing thru beautiful southern oregon, when "BOOM" flat tire....As they wait for the tow truck Dad see's the sign for the "Aquatic Arts & Education Center"

Hey Lets check out the Aquarium!



The family after spending hours marveling over the amazing exhibits,decides to stay for the night. thats $ for a hotel,dinner...ect. wich in turn pays wages to employees of the southern oregon community's!


Lets make a better community for us and our FRESHWATER FRIENDS!

Donations Can Be Sent To:


Freshwater Friends LLC
Attetion: Aquatic Arts & Education Center
390 E. Glenwood st.
Grants Pass ,Oregon 97527

Freshwater Lobsters / Crawfish

Crayfish (crawfish, crawdads, crabs, freshwater lobsters, baby lobsters, yabbies, catfish bait, mud bugs or whatever you wanna call them) fascinate people -- particularly little people. Few observers can resist the way these armored arthropods clamber about on the bottom searching for adventure and scavenging for food.

In the wild, crayfish ARE the food. Raccoons, larger fishes, larger crayfish, lizards, Louisianans, and turtles all consider them tasty (if somewhat crunchy) treats. Freshly shed (soft shell crayfish) are especially tasty and vulnerable.

Well Armored, A crayfish backed into its burrow presents a wall of defense too difficult for most predators to overpower. When dropped into an Oscar tank, however, their shells and claws offer a futile defense. Oscars snap them right up.

Crayfish grow wild across the states, You can catch them in creeks and ponds containing no large fishes. Toss out a line with a piece of bacon on it. You need no hook. The stubborn crayfish gloms onto the bacon and refuses to release it as you pull him (sometimes them) to shore. You’ll know how well those big pincers work, unless you pick them up correctly.

Catch Your Own? If you want large quantities of crayfish, use a minnow seine. The 15-foot long ones will collect tons of these pincered scavengers. If you need only small quantities, they’re more practical to buy. They’re an inexpensive pet – initial cost and maintenance.
Several Uses. Commercially, crayfish fall into the food (for people) and bait categories. And then there’s the fun category.
Some 500 species of crayfish exist worldwide. About 150 species live here in the U.S. Most are about the size you find locally. One crayfish in Tasmania grows as large as your average house cat. Technically, lobsters are probably saltwater critters. Crayfish live in freshwater. Lots of those rock lobsters from South Africa are really crayfish.

Red Lobsters are really crayfish. You probably knew that. But you could find them in a local creek somewhere.

Decapods. Crayfish belong to the Decapod order. This means they have 10 legs – their two well functioning pincers, plus the eight legs they use for locomotion, breeding, and food gathering.

Pincers. Crayfish use their pincers for protection and to gather food. They are omnivores. That means they eat everything – your fish, your plants & your snails. Nothing organic on the aquarium bottom is safe from your crayfish, not even other crayfish. Never take a nap in a pond full of crayfish.

Since they eat anything they find, crawdads make good scavengers. You can mix crayfish with large fish. They make good scavengers in Oscar tanks (until the Oscar gets big enough to eat them).

Night fall. Their long sensitive antennae enable crayfish to find food in low light periods. They get more active in the evenings, work all night, and work thru dawn. In the wild, they scurry back to the protection of their burrows when the sun shines. In our tanks, they start marching whenever you add food to their water.

Breeding. Most crayfish lay eggs in the spring. Females lay dozens of eggs and attach them to their swimmerettes (their tiny back legs). These “in berry” females protect their eggs and young. Her busy little legs move the eggs around and thus aerate them constantly. Egg hatching time depends upon temperature. The young stay under her tail until their first molt. If you pester them and knock them loose, most will quickly return to mom. In a week or so, they go out on their own.

Malawi Cichlids - Utaka

Utaka Cichlids:

Most Lake Malawi cichlids are kept as a mix of mbuna, peacocks and utaka. The mbuna are well known as the rock dwelling, brightly-coloured cichlids of the genera Pseudotropheus, Labidochromis, Cynotilapia, Labeotropheus and Metriaclima (amongst others). These are the typical cichlids so often traded as ‘mixed Malawis’, a term that gives shudders as it often includes hybridized, poorly-coloured specimens imported cheaply from the Far East by importers.
These are of unknown ancestry, and bear little resemblance to the pure species from the lake. Most are hormone-fed to produce vivid colour (whilst the hormone treatment lasts), and even the females are coloured-up, like the males, so buying both sexes is difficult.

Hemitilapia oxyrhynchus is one of the most attractive utaka species
What is rarely traded is the real utaka species from Lake Malawi. Utaka are the open water, or sand-dwelling species that do not spend their entire lives in the vicinity of rocks, as do the mbuna. These are often slightly larger-growing species than the mbuna, and most show no colour save dull silver, until the male is near adult size, at which time the most glorious blues and other colours are displayed. They can form large shoals over sandy areas, or even in open water, where they feed on the abundant Malawi lake flies (Chaoboris edulis) that swarm at certain times of year. Although many utaka species will still frequent rocky areas of the lake, they do not seem dependant on the rocky environment for their territories or for feeding and reproduction. Typical species of utaka often traded are ‘Electric blue haps’ the so-called Ahli (Sciaenochromis fryeri, this is not strictly a utaka species), Protomelas species such as the well-known “P ‘steveni Taiwan’, the red empress P. taeniolatus ‘Namalenje’ and the ‘fire-blue’ race of this species. Others from the genera Copadichromis, Mylochromis, Cyrtocara and Buccochromis are quite well-known in the hobby.
Copadichromis azureus must be the bluest fish in Lake Malawi, hence its name
The most ‘extreme’ form of this group is the species Copadichromis chrysonotus, a beautiful deep blue cichlid that spawns in open deep water, having no territory save the immediate water around it. In this case the female drops several eggs into the water column, and these are immediately picked up by the female, and probably fertilized in the buccal cavity by the male. On completion of spawning the female then joins shoals of other mouthbrooding females in open water. Food in the form of drifting phytoplankton and more importantly zooplankton is the sole source of protein, and these fish never, or very rarely ‘graze’ from rocks as do mbuna. This is undoubtedly a fine utaka species, but something totally different from C. chrysonotus. A simple diagnostic tool is that Cop. azureus has an almost straight dorsal forehead profile and is deep azure blue all over, whilst Cop. Chrysonotun has a more ‘boat shaped’ or elliptical profile, and adult males are paler on the dorsal surface than further down the body, one of the very few Malawi cichlids to be paler above than below.
Malawi peacocks, like this shoal of Aulonocara mbenji, are good tank mates for other utaka
One of the nicest utaka is Hemitilapia oxyrhynchus, quite a mouthful by name, but a stunning electric blue fish, that grows quite large, reaching about 15cm. Adult males have long trailing unpaired fins. For something that looks different from the typical blunt-snouted cichlid from Lake Malawi, the utaka of the genus Mylochromis are interesting, having long pointed snouts much like a spotted grunter from our estuaries. M. ‘mchuse’ has this long extended snout and a diagonal dark line running across the body from the upper shoulder. Adult males become very deep blue, with quite a bit of red in their fins, and look very dramatic, although are peaceful in temperament. Another strangely-shaped cichlid from the utaka group that many are familiar with is Cyrtocara moori, sometimes traded under that ghastly ‘common’ name “Malawi blue dolphins”…if ever there was a case of debasing something elegant, beautiful and almost regal as this species is, by giving it a plebian common name… this is it! “Mooriis” is quite adequate! These largish fish (up to 15cm for an adult male) are characterized by having a domed protuberance, or nuchal hump, on the head: the only Malawi cichlid to have one. Reasons for this are not well understood, but almost every cichlid enthusiast is familiar with Cyphotilapia frontosa, the large striped cichlid from L. Tanganyika which have even larger nuchal humps. Many Central American cichlids also display this feature as adult males.
What sort of aquarium is required for utaka? If you have something of the order of a ‘3 foot’ or ‘4 foot’, these tanks are too small. They may (just) be adequate for small mbuna like Labidochromis caeruleus or Cynotilapia afra, but are just too small to allow utaka species to mature and display their finnage and colour to their full potential. Whilst utaka are generally less aggressive than mbuna, they do require more space when adult as they do not have the habit of retreating to rocks to escape aggression by others, and as they are large when adult, less can be kept per unit volume of water. An ideal aquarium size is a 2m aquarium with sides 0.5m square holding about 500-600 litres. Bigger tanks are even better.
Utaka can be mixed with the more peaceful mbuna like the Labidochromis species, peacocks of the genus Aulonocara, and ‘small-time’ predators such as Electric blue haps (‘Ahli’). To mix them with Pseudotropheus, Metriaclima, Labeotropheus and other larger and aggressive territorial mbuna is asking for trouble, and the utaka will not develop to their full potential unless the aquarium is very large, with sufficient open space for the utaka to be able to keep away from rocky territories ‘owned’ by male mbuna.
Feeding of Malawi cichlids is always a difficult question: most hobbyists are sold so-called cichlid pellets by shops keen on making a quick buck by passing along their most expensive foods. These are invariably high-protein feeds developed for such predatory fish as Oscars, and other South and Central American cichlids from the old genus Cichlasoma (Jack Dempseys, Texas cichlids, Convicts, Jaguars etc). Such foods are invariably too high in protein for the algae-grazing mbuna and result in fast growth followed by early ‘unexplained’ mortality, as the animals’ internal organs collapse through an excess of protein: much like we would do if fed a sole diet of red meat for breakfast, lunch and supper. They need lots of low-protein spirulina based flake or pellet food to thrive. Utaka and peacock species (Aulonocara) are somewhat less fussy than mbuna in this respect, as their natural diet includes somewhat more animal protein in the form of insects and zooplankton in the wild. Having said this though, an exclusive diet of high-protein dry food in pellet or flake form only, will not cause them to thrive. I recommend a basic diet of spirulina flake (or pellet, if they are large specimens) food, supplemented three times weekly with cichlid pellets, frozen bloodworm and other ‘delicacies’ that may be available like earthworms, shrimp, frozen or live daphnia or cyclops etc.
As with all Lake Malawi cichlids the water quality must be kept at a high pH (between 8 and 9) and more importantly the water hardness must not be allowed to become too soft. A general hardness of over 10 degrees DH is preferred. Both pH and hardness can be sustained at correct levels by using crushed shell, either mixed with the coarse sand as the substrate or even better by using it as part of the filter medium. This shell will very slowly dissolve and buffer the water. If you are fortunate to live in a limestone area, or have naturally hard tap water this will not be so essential, but parts of the country such as Cape Town which have naturally soft acidic water will find it essential to buffer the water. Often coral sand is used, but I still have reservations that this substance is too fine and causes gill-irritation, as fish in aquaria with coral sand always seem to be scratching themselves on the rocks as if ‘irritated’. Symptoms of pH shock are reddish marks at the fin roots, moping on the bottom and extreme nervousness by the fish. Any aquarium water becomes more acidic as time passes due to the filtration’s chemical process, so pH drop may creep up on you slowly and you may be shocked on checking the ph reading at how low it really is. If you ask what the right pH should be, and your local store tells you that their water is “at the correct level, i.e. pH of 7” they do not know what they are talking about so rather buy your utaka elsewhere, the guy is an ignoramus and thinks you are too!
Copadichromis chrysonotus (male with females) is a typical utaka but with unusual colouring in that the deeper colour is on the ventral surface.
Utaka are not difficult to breed: they are all mouthbrooders like all other endemic Malawi cichlids, and have rather large broods often of 100 or more. The juveniles are usually smaller than mbuna fry, and tend to be more fragile, so the chances of raising any in a community of other cichlids is small. If you want to save the young the mouthbrooding female should be carefully removed to another tank to complete her 18-24 day cycle before final release of the fry. A word of warning! Utaka are much more prone to spitting out their eggs or fry than mbuna, so guide her with the net into a submerged small bucket rather than lifting her bodily out of the water, if you have to. If she does ‘spit the eggs’ try incubating them in a two-litre ice cream container with an airstone, you may just succeed in hatching them!

Malawi Cichlids - Care & Facts

African Cichlids: Malawi / Mbunas

Malawi Cichlids are from the African Lake Malawi. This lake is home to nearly 500 species of cichlids. Most of these are extremely colorful and great eye candy. These fish are territorial and often get quite aggressive. The two main types are the Mbuna and the Utaka.
Lake Malawi in eastern Africa stretching as it does for some 600 km is one of the great lakes of the world. The inhabitants of Lake Malawi, the Malawi Cichlids, are some of the most beautiful creatures in the world.
Most of the fish from Lake Malawi are Mbuna, that is, they live in very rocky areas allowing the males to choose their own territory which they protect fiercely.
The other type of fish found in Lake Malawi is the Utaka or open swimmers. They require a tank with less rocks and more open space. Some Utaka species are Aulonocara, Cyrtocara, and Protomelas.
Most Malawi Cichlids are about 4" in length, but a few species reach up to lengths of 12" as well.
The colors of the mbuna start developing while they are quite small, but the young utaka remain rather plain, and only become colorful with maturity. The utaka are also less aggressive than the mbuna, and therefore should not be kept with the rowdy mbuna.
In an aquarium setting, it is best to use a large, species-specific tank with a small population. In order to replicate its original environment, it would be helpful to place a number of rocks in the aquarium so that the Malawi Cichlids can mark out their territory. Limestone rocks would work perfectly.
It would also be beneficial to provide rocks with rich algal growth on them as Malawi Cichlids love to feed on algae (The correct lighting would promote such algal growth apart from showing your fish to their best advantage). You could also feed them vegetables such as spinach and lettuce.
In some species of Malawi Cichlids the males and females are colored differently. One of the distinctions is that male cichlids may have several light spots called egg spots on their anal fin, while the females would have fewer such spots. When picking the fish it is best to purchase them in trios (one male and two females). This helps reduce stress as the aggressiveness of the male will be spread over the two females instead of it being the lot of just one.
Most Malawi Cichlids breed quite easily. Malawi Cichlids are largely mouth brooders, that is, once the eggs have been fertilized by the male, the female places them in her mouth for safekeeping. Often, the mothers stop eating at the time of spawning. It is advisable to separate an egg-laden female and place her in a different tank. The reason for this is that she will undoubtedly become weak by not eating, and may therefore be attacked by the other fish. Plus there is also the danger of the other fish eating the fry. In fact, even the female might eat the fry, so it is best to separate even her from fry once they hatch. The fry may be fed the same thing as their parents. This would include flakes, pellets, and frozen food. The only difference would be that they should be ground well when being given to the fry.
The filtration process should not be ignored as all traces of ammonia must be removed from the water. Frequent water changes of 20 to 25% every week would go a long way in keeping the water free from potentially dangerous substances. This would also prove beneficial for spawning fish. A crushed coral substrate could be used. This, apart from being functional, is also beneficial as it gradually dissolves in the water and thereby increases its mineral content. Hard, alkaline water would keep your Malawi Cichlid quite satisfied. A pH between 7.6 and 8.6 and a temperature of 76-80F degrees would be ideal.

Trumpet Snails - Care & control

Trumpet Snails: Care & control

From their name, we’ll guess the Malaysian trumpet snails come from Malaysia. However, most of them appear as if by magic. They come in as hitchhikers on live plants. Most retailers don’t sell them. Even though many of them have them hidden in their gravel.
In a warm tank, Malaysian trumpet snails multiply explosively.
Hard to Find. You can have hundreds of these helpful little Malaysian trumpet snails in your tank and never see one -- unless you look at your tank an hour or two after you turn out your lights. Use a flashlight, and you’ll notice these guys and gals (along with other seldom seen tiny critters) sliding up the walls of your tank.

If you see an entire herd of these or any other snails headed for the top during the day, you have a severe water quality problem. Or your filter system has shut down. Fix it asap.
When your Malaysian trumpet snails crawl out of their water, you know it's time for a water change.

Incredibly Helpful. Malaysian trumpet snails burrow through your substrate and keep it nice and “fluffy” -- the way your plant roots like it. They also inhale all that excess fish food you shoveled in there trying to make up for the fact that you forgot to feed them yesterday. If your snails overrun your tank, you’re shoveling in way too many “pinches” of fish food.
Malaysian trumpet snails rarely harm plants.
Not Plant Eaters. Some snails graze plants to their bare roots -- apple snails and Borneo ramshorns come to mind. Common pond snails (Physa) and ramshorns (Planorbis) will punch a few holes in your leaves. The latter two groups are the ones that everyone fears will “take over” their tanks. Malaysian trumpet snails will nibble on plants only in the absence of all other foods.
Most grow to about an inch. Theoretically they grow about 50% larger.
Adult Size. Malaysian trumpet snails grow to about an inch. After tunneling thru your gravel a couple years, they die and become part of your gravel. Their shell slowly dissolves and loses color.
Any critter that lives in a house built of lime is going to prefer hard water.
Soft Water not Appreciated. Soft water tends to dissolve their shells. African cichlid water ought to put a smile on the face of any Malaysian trumpet snail. These are one of the few snails that can survive in a tank of African cichlids. Their incredibly hard shell protects them from most predators. Even clown loaches have a hard time shucking these guys. However, brackish water puffers can crush and eat them. Snails also dislike salty water.
Hardy Snails. We’ve drained tanks and let them dry out with their gravel in them. When we added water several weeks later, the Malaysian trumpet snails reappeared. We’ve rinsed gravel in water that felt scalding, and the tough little raspers reappeared the next day. We’ve never tried one of the snail killers (copper sulfate) because we didn’t want to leave a bunch of dead copper-ridden snails under the gravel. If you have more than you want, cut your feeding program in half. Or turn off your filter. When the snails crawl up the sides, net them off the glass.

About as big as a grain of sand .
Tiny Malaysian trumpet snails are so light you can siphon them out with a gravel vacuum cleaner. Remember this if you need to reduce your population. Not only are they white, they’re light enough to sluice ’em on out. The adults hang on to their substrate more strongly.

We here at Freshwater Friends find them a very useful snail.

Mystery / Apple Snails - Care & Control

Apple Snail Care Sheet:
This care sheet details the proper husbandry practies of the Apple Snail, P. bridgessiCommon Name: Apple Snail Scientific Name: Ampullariidae family, including the genera Asolene, Felipponea, Marisa, Pomacea, Afropomus, Lanistes, Saulea, and Pila.

For the sake of ease, this care sheet focuses on Pomacea bridgessi, the most common species of Apple Snail found in pet stores.

Also Known As: Mystery Snail, Inca Snail, often preceded by a color morph name.Often Confused With: Pomacea bridgessi is sometimes confused with other species of apple snail, however the color of the eggs and shape of the shell are highly distinctive.

Description: Apple snails are among the largest aquatic snail species available in the pet trade, sometimes reaching a size similar to that of a golf ball with proper care. Most available in pet stores are under 1” in diameter. The shell is globeose as opposed to cone-like. Pomacea bridgessi will have flat shoulders and 90 degree sutures, with a slightly less pointed spine than some of the other species. The angle of the sutures decreases with the whorls closest to the peak of the shell. Coloration is highly variable, ranging from leucistic varieties such as the ivory and golden variations, to darker color morphs such as blue.

The traditional, natural shell color is brown with banding.Maximum Adult Size: Varies with species; most will only grow to 2-3” in diameter. One variety, Pomacea maculata, may reach 6” in diameter.

Area of Origin: Pomacea genus snails yield from South, Central, and southern North America. Other species come from areas such as Asia and Africa. They are found in freshwater only, typically in tropical or sub-tropical climates.Lifespan: Lifespan is dependant on temperature; lower temps can yield lifespans in the area of 3+ years old; high tropical temperatures may result in lifespans of as little as one year.

Suggested Care Level: Easy, providing water conditions are suitable for the species.Min/Max Tank Size: Use the inch per gallon rule based on the individual species, but be warned that these are high-waste species so under stocking may be best. P. bridgessi are good candidates for smaller community tanks, and a single specimen would likely survive in a well filtered 2.5g aquarium.Temperature: Tropical and sub-tropical temperatures are best; 65-75 degrees is the ideal range, though survival is possible in temps of up to 85 degrees. Be forewarned that warmer temperatures will shorten lifespan.pH: pH should be neutral to slightly base; acid corrodes the shell.

Hardness: Harder water is needed for these species; if there is insufficient calcium in the water, calcium must be supplemented via a powder or a cuttlebone. Water with a high copper content is deadly to snails, so if you are known to have water with a great deal of metals, use a water conditioner that will detoxify these compounds.

Salinity: Salinity should be kept to a bare minimum and only very slowly added in low concentrations in an already dissolved form. If you need to salt to treat a disease in the tank, snails should be removed first.

Current: Although apple snails can survive in stagnant, low-oxygen water, streaming, well-oxygenated water is preferable. In poorly filtered tank, they will likely degrade water quality rapidly due to waste output.

Diet: Though primarily herbivorous, apple snails are active scavengers. Their diet should thus consist primarily of vegetation, but may also include higher protein foods such as blood worms. A sinking herbivore or omnivore pellet may be used as the staple, and boiled leafy green vegetables are a great source of calcium. Cucumbers make a suitable treat. It is important to not to force the snails to rely on algae as a primary food source; most are actually poor algae consumers and will starve or eat aquarium plants with insufficient food sources. A flat surface or gravel-lacking area should be provided for feeding as food that sinks between the gravel cracks may be inaccessible to snails.

Temperament: Community. Apple Snails are peaceful and non-threatening. They may scavenge sick and dying fish, however, so keep out of hospital tanks.Suggested tank mates: Apple snails are compatible with most aquarium species that share their temperature, hardness, and pH needs. However, many scavenging loach species are known to eat apple snails out of their shells. Common goldfish also have a propensity for consuming this species, so use caution when housing with larger fish.

Watch for nipping; the antennae are attractive to many carnivorous species. Cichlids and apple snails do not mix; cichlids can crack and destroy the shell with ease.

Sexing: The best way to sex an apple snail is to roll the snail onto its back out of water. It will eventually emerge from its shell, at which point the male should have a visible penile sheath near the upper right portion of mantle cavity. The male should also have a more rounded shell aperture, but unless you have several snails for comparison, this is a poor method.

Breeding: Apple snails produce sexually and are oviparous. If you have both genders residing in your tank, breeding is inevitable, as apple snails are prolific breeders. Thankfully, the eggs are very visible and easy to recognize, and are laid above the water level, which makes removal simple. However, if you wish to breed, you should leave at least one-six inches of space between the water line and the lid. A humid environment should be maintained above water through a glass lid. Breeding is encouraged by higher temperatures and plenty of quality foods, so an abundance of pellet and fresh foods should be offered to a breeding colony. Eggs are laid in clutches that range in color from a very pale pink or green to a deep raspberry hue. P. bridgessi lays bright orange eggs, another easy way of identifying the species of your snail. Most are pale and gelatinous upon laying, then harden and develop color. Individual eggs are tiny (only a couple of mm in diameter), but the length of the egg case may be several inches long. Unless optimal humidity is maintained, only the eggs in the core are likely to hatch.

Hatching should occur in 2-4 weeks, influenced heavily by temperature. If humidity is insufficient, assistance in hatching may be required. If no hatching occurs after four weeks, the eggs are likely infertile (females will lay eggs regardless of if they have been fertilized). It is normal to see a high death rate in the first few weeks; feed the same diet as you would adults and consider confinement in an algae-rich container as small snails have trouble breaching differences between feeding sites. If you do move the snails to a separate container, however, be sure to use at least 1/3 water from the original tank, and allow the water to age for a minimum of 2 weeks.

"It should be clear: never release your apple snails in local ponds or rivers!"

Assembly:

For the simplest setup, we recommend that you purchase a 20 to 55 gallon glass tank with an under gravel filter, plastic top with a fluorescent light, one pound-per-gallon of aquarium gravel, an air pump, a power filter and a submersible heater. If you have some extra money, get a power head to assist the air pump and to turbo charge your under gravel filter. There is no such thing as over filtering.
For beginners we recommend a selection of plastic plants and plastic, resin, wood, ceramic or stone decorations available from most pet shops.
Setting up your aquarium is easy, now that you have your equipment.

1.)Take the stand and put it someplace in your home where you will be able to enjoy your fish, and where you will be able to take care of them. You will also want to put it someplace where it will look nice for quite some time, since it is quite a bit of work to move the tank, and you should place the aquarium where it will not get direct sunlight (this will help control algae).

2.)Place the tank on the stand, and make sure that there is solid contact between the tank and the stand. Warped surfaces can break the glass bottom of most fish tanks.

3.) If you have an Under Gravel Filter (UGF), you will need to place that next. The UGF goes on the bottom of the tank. Place the lift tubes in their sockets. For most smaller tanks one lift tube will be plenty if you are using a power head to run the filter. If you are using an air pump to run the filter, you will probably need two. Check the setup instructions for the filter to see if you need to do anything else when setting up your filter; for example, plugging unused lift tube ports or attaching bubble walls. You want to leave the tops off of the lift tubes for now.

4.)Thoroughly rinse the gravel and put it in the tank. Spread the gravel out so that you have a relatively even layer. You want the lowest point in the gravel to be near the front of the tank, so detritus will collect there, where you can see it to clean it out. Make sure that the gravel does not have many dips in it as it slopes to the back of the tank, to simplify your cleaning job.If you have a filter other than a UGF which goes inside the tank, set it up and place it in the tank now. Thoroughly rinse everything with cool running tap water before you put it in the tank.

5.)Now you can add the heater and water pumps (if necessary). If you have a hanging heater, hang it off the back, someplace where you can still see it. You want to be able to see it so you can tell when it is on. If you have a submersible heater, place it near the bottom of the tank (heat rises), and approximately horizontal.DO NOT PLUG IN THE HEATER YET!

6.) Find a location for your air pump. It should be placed above the water level, because water can drain back out through the air tube if the power goes off, damaging the pump, and maybe damaging other things. If you cannot place the air pump above the water line, you should probably check into getting some check-valves for the air line. You will probably also need a gang valve for the air line, which will let you run two lift tubes off of a single outlet air pump. Run a piece of air line from the air pump to the gang valve. Run another piece of air line from the gang valve to each of your lift tubes. Check the instructions for your filter to see exactly how to attach the air line to the air stones (this varies from model to model...). If you are not using a UGF, check to see if your filter needs an air pump attached, and how to attach one. If you are running your filter with a power head, rather than an air pump, place the power head on top of the lift tube following the instructions on the package.
Make SURE that your pumps and heaters are all UNplugged. You can break your heater or air stones by having them running when you add water, and your power heads can easily overheat without water to cool them.

7.) At this point, your lift tubes should be closed off so that fish cannot get into them.Now you should place your decorations in the tank and see what they will look like (more or less) without getting your hands wet and making a lot of mess. Remember that many ceramic or plastic decorations will trap air and either float or tip over as you put water in the tank. (Just a warning, so you won't be surprised when it happens.)

8.)Once your decorations are in place, you will want to put the top on the tank. If you bought a kit from a pet shop, you should either have a glass top with a light strip, or an integrated plastic top. However it is made, the back section should be made of light weight plastic which you can cut to accommodate power cords, heaters, filters, and air lines. With a pair of scissors or a utility knife, carefully cut out notches as necessary for your setup.

9.)At this point, you should be ready to add water. You can just pour water into the tank without treating it at this time, since you have no fish, plants, or biological filter to worry about. Just add treatment after you have the tank full. If you are just pouring the water in, you probably want to pour it over a rock or some other ornament to keep from digging a hole in the gravel. If you don't have an appropriate ornament, get a bowl or plate from your kitchen and use that. Once the tank is full, let it sit for an hour or so, to saturate your air stones and to equalize the heater temperature, then turn everything on.Add some water into the power filter to prime it,this will help the filter to start functioning. Wait a day or two before getting any fish, this way you can stabilize the temperature, make sure that nothing leaks, and insure that all of your equipment is working properly.

Once you have your aquarium equipment all set up, and you are sure that the equipment is operating correctly, and that the temperature is stable and set correctly, you are ready to introduce your first fish and begin the cycling process.

Product Reviews & Ratings by Freshwater Friends LLC - Our opinions on products we test and use.

Power Filter Reviews:
Aqua-Tech power filters: (models tested, 5-10/10-20/20-40/30-60)

Filters are a very important piece of equipment in an aquarium and critical to your aquarium’s success. The job of the filter is to move the water through the filter cartridge where it is processed to remove odors and small particles of waste and through the BIO-Fiber to eliminate the toxic ammonia and nitrites from the aquarium water. Each of the AQUA-Tech Power Filters provides this 3-stage filtration for healthier fish and cleaner water.

The first stage of the AQUA-Tech filtration is mechanical. The blue polyfiber pad that is integrated onto the EZ-ChangeTM Filter Cartridge screens out dirt and debris as water passes through.

The second stage of the AQUA-Tech filtration is chemical. The activated carbon that is in the EZ-ChangeTM Filter Cartridge removes dissolved waste and cleans the water of odors.

The third stage of the AQUA-Tech filtration is biological. The BIO-Fiber that is included in each AQUA-Tech Power Filter provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow and thrive. The bacteria then eliminate toxic ammonia and nitrites that can be fatal to fish. You should never clean or throw away the BIO-Fiber. If the BIO-Fiber becomes too clogged, rinse it with conditioned water only.

AQUA-Tech Power Filters come in four sizes providing 3-stage filtration for aquarium sizes from 5 to 60 gallons.

Results: Over all our Aqua-Tech power filters withstood constant use and we were able to connect them to under gravel filter systems to create a filtering power head systems. Cleaning and maintanence are a plus simply rinse once a week, change out the carbon with Aqua-Techs EZ-change # cartridges twice a month and clean the intake tube monthly for optimal performance.

It is our finding that AQUA-Tech Power Filters are by far the best and easiest filter system to operate for beginners and experts. FIVE STARS! *****



Undergravel Filter Reviews:
Lee's Undergravel Filter: (Models Tested - 10 to 55 gallons)

Trouble-free Biological Under Gravel Filter designed with adjustable 1 inch uplift tubes for better water circulation. Multiple plate construction for easy installation. Lee`s Undergravel Filter is the key to providing a strong biological filtration system. Placed on the bottom surface of the aquarium, the filter plates utilize the gravel bed as a source of surface area and provide oxygen by recirculating the water down through the media and up through the uplift tubes. Lees Original Under Gravel Filter includes airline diffusers, carbon cartridges and Discard-A-Stone and has a fish-saver feature. Advanced design allows separate plate installation and features optional flow-thru set-up which can be used with a power head. Made of special quality plastic which resists splitting and cracking For use in freshwater aquariums. Measure Hexagon Undergravel Filter from Flat Side to Flat side of the hexagon.

Results: Freshwater Friends LLC uses lee's UGF systems in all our facility tanks. It is our finding that the lee's UGF system is a truly benificial addition to any freshwater aquarium. Our studys included the use of power heads and power filters attached to the UGF system to "super charge" the bio-filtration method. The lee's UGF withstood test after test and has become a favorite product of Freshwater Friends LLC.

"We find the Lee's UGF to be a blessing for anyone novices to pro's" FIVE STARS! *****

Aquarium Maintenance Products Review:

Phython Products Gravel Vacume:(models tested 25 ft NO SPILL KIT)

Frequent water changes are imperative to the health of your fish. Without regular water changes, invisible toxins can build-up in your aquarium creating a hazardous environment for its inhabitants. Because fish and decor are not disturbed during routine aquarium maintenance, PYTHON products are less stressful on both fish and owner making it easier to clean your tank on a more regular basis.
Just think - you will be able to perform your mandatory aquarium maintenance with NO buckets, NO siphons, NO mess, NO tank tear downs - EVER again!

Quality! PYTHON takes all steps necessary to ensure their products are manufactured of only of the highest quality FDA approved materials. Unlike garden hoses and cheap imitations, their patented system consists of UV stabilized, non-porous tubing which eliminates the possibility of adding dangerous chemical toxins into your tank water.
Environmentally Responsible! Due to PYTHONS powerful 7 to 1 suction ratio, cleaning your tank uses about the same amount of water as flushing your toilet.
No Assembly! The "NO SPILL CLEAN and FILL" Aquarium Maintenance System is complete and ready to use.
Time Saving! Ease of using the System allows for smaller, more frequent water changes reducing stress on fish and user.

Results: "With out a challenger in sight PYTHON PRODUCTS "No spill clean & Fill" is by far the single greatest gift to the aquarium/pond community."

"If you are a fish keeper you must have this product!" FIVE STARS *****

Aquarium Equipment and Information center

Freshwater Friends is a growing group of individuals that care for, breed and specialize in fresh water fish and aquatic inhabitants.
Our mission is to simplify and encourage more people to care for freshwater aquatic inhabitants due to our shared need for life....Fresh water.

To best understand the workings and needs of the basic freshwater fish tank, let us start with the basic set up and equipment needed to maintian your freshwater pets habitat.

(see our product reviews for more help on choosing you equipment)

The Tank:Size and material are very important in deciding the location of your tank and the types of inhabitants you will be able to house.
Genral rules calls for aprox 1 gallon for every inch of fish. For example - A single 6 inch fish will need No less then 7 gallons. It is the opinion of FRESHWATER FRIENDS LLC that no less then 10 gallons be used for a single fish including BETTA'S aka Siamese fighting fish.To due so would be inhumane.

It is most important to locate an area in the home or office that will support the weight of the tank and stand when fully filled with water.
Water weighs aprox 9 lbs per gallon, that meens that a typical 30 gallon tank when filled will be almost 300 LBS. This does not include gravel,rock,decor and fish weight.
Material is an important factor when choosing your tank considering the large varity of "tank busters" such as oscars and large pacu breeds.These fish have a history of exploding tanks from the inside.For fish such as these an acrylic or plexiglass tank would be best.
Glass is the most common of materials used in aquarium construction and all the types we discussed have pros and cons,and this will be a personal decision for you.
One factor to take in to consideration is that acrylic is lighter and will not break as easily.Acrylic also retains heat better than glass.On the other hand,acrylic will scratch and it does cost more then glass. Glass aquariums do not tend to scratch unless treated roughly,and they are less expensive than acrylic.However glass tanks break more easily,they tend to lose heat faster,they are heavier than acrylic and there is a slight greenish tint,particularly in the thicker glass of large tanks.However,with greenery in the tank,this green tint will blend quite nicely into the natural appearance.

You will also come across various shapes as well,triangles,tall cylinder style,bow fronts, and hexagonal are just a few off the top of my head. Shape will also dictate the location choices for your tank. For example a tall cylinder tank is wonderful for a coner room setting,while you typical rectangular tanks are wonderful wall accents. No matter the room or setting, you can achive the special look you are wanting.


The Tank Stand:There are many tank stands for you to choose from,but the main goal is to suport the full weight of the tank,rocks,water weight and inhabitants. We are talking in some cases THOUSANDS of pounds. The next goal is choosing decoritive or functional. Remember when choosing your stand that you will have air lines and power cords to run as well as the air pump its self so it is important to have a storage area for your assorted nets, equipment and chemicals.(locks should be installed or chemicals stored out of reach of children) Most prodution cabnits from retail stores will have these fetures.


Lighting systems:You need to check if there is good aquarium lighting. This is important for aquarium plants and the fishes.
If your aquarium has poor aquarium lighting, your colorful fish may not be seen properly and it will also cause it to fade and turn the shades to other colors. If you want to have good aquarium lighting, you can choose between fluorescent or incandescent light.
If this is your first time to set up an aquarium, trying out the light may be from trial and error because you need to check if the light matches with the environment of your aquarium. Try to see first whether it is too dark or too light, then you can start adjusting the lights.
If you have too much aquarium lighting, it might cause the water to look green. If you have little light, it might cause to inhibit plant growth. You may choose whether you want artificial light or natural light. You can even make a combination to see which does better in giving light to your aquarium.
If it is daylight, it will be fine to shut the artificial lights off but when the natural light goes out, you need to let light stand in the aquarium for at least 8 hours.
You can also use light colored bulbs for your aquarium lighting. This will give impact to the nice colors of your fishes and the colors may even be enhanced. If you want your aquarium lighting to give a good effect to your aquarium, use light from behind. This will show the best features of your aquarium and the plant growth will stay healthy too.
Start gathering the best light that you wish to put in your aquarium. After setting up a good lighting, you might never take your eyes of your aquarium. A lot of people will surely notice and appreciate your aquarium because of the aquarium lighting that you have installed.

Normal Output Fluorescent Lighting:
Also called Standard Fluorescent lights, these versatile lighting systems are the easiest way to illuminate an aquarium. Fluorescent light fixtures are a great choice for freshwater fish aquariums. The wide selection available for these easy-to-use, affordable, and energy-efficient light fixtures allows hobbyist to customize aquarium lighting. Use different bulbs to provide the right light for your aquarium inhabitants.

Compact Fluorescents:
Compact Fluorescents are higher light output versions of standard fluorescent light systems. Instead of single tube bulbs, compact fluorescent systems incorporate dual or quad tube bulbs for greater light output from a single bulb. A single compact fluorescent light fixture easily does the job of two standard fluorescent fixtures. This space-saving feature makes compact fluorescent systems a great choice when upgrading from standard fluorescent systems. Fortunately, compact fluorescent light systems are no more difficult to operate and maintain than standard fluorescent light systems. These self-contained lighting systems are easy to operate and since they are a type of fluorescent light system, it has all the benefits of fluorescent lighting. For example, low operating cost, lower heat emission, and a wide selection of bulbs with color temperatures ideal for freshwater applications.



Metals Halides:
Metal halide systems are high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems popular among many advanced aquarium hobbyists. Metal halides are comprised of a main glass bulb with a series of wires connecting another glass bulb (arc tube) within it. When electricity passes through the arc tube, the gases and metal salts contained within the tube produce light. Unlike other high intensity discharge lighting systems (e.g., sodium or mercury vapor lights), the light spectrum and the color rendition produced by metal halides is suited for aquarium use. Metal halide fixtures are ideal for aquariums, with inhabitants that require high lighting conditions. Metal halide systems are also used for very large aquariums or aquariums deeper than 24 inches where other lighting systems may not be powerful enough to provide adequate illumination.
Choosing the right lights for your aquarium is a matter of personal taste and your inhabitant's needs. However, be sure to always use lighting systems specifically designed for aquariums. The right lights help you enjoy the beauty of your aquarium & keep your inhabitants healthy.


Filters:Probably the most crucial part of an aquarium is the filter. Aquarium filtration systems take away damaging chemicals and contaminants from your fish's habitat and preserve the quality of the water. Aquarium filters will work well only if they are uncontaminated and so they need to be cleaned and maintained frequently. They are very significant as the life of the beautiful fish elegantly adorning your aquarium depends heavily on the water quality. Known brands available today offer quality filters to suit most kinds of aquarium. There are three types of aquarium filters available on the market today. Let's check them, one by one.


Mechanical Filtration Systems:
A mechanical filter functions by catching filth and waste particles that are present in the aquarium water in fibrous pads (filter elements) located in the filter itself. Gradually, these particles will accumulate in the filter element and obstruct it. Prolonged presence of these particles is toxic to the fish. This kind of filter system should be cleaned frequently. Mechanical filters have filter elements that are typically made of polyester. These filter elements can also come in an assortment of materials such as foam sponge, filter wool and pressed fibers. You can choose any of the assorted models offered on the market external or internal filter systems.

Chemical Filtration Systems :
The most common kind of chemical filters are the charcoal filters. This type of filter has activated charcoal which is useful at taking away most common contaminants from the aquarium water. Charcoal filters function by letting the activated charcoal soak up all the unsafe substances floating in your tank's water. One more common type of filter utilized in home tanks is the carbon filter; these filters are very good at eliminating big quantities of contamination and function very well when used together with mechanical filters. But it is vital to keep in mind that any type of filter will only work well when it's clean. It is necessary to test the filter from time to time and replace its components when they get too filthy.

Biological Filtration Systems :
Biological filters also called Bio-filtration systems, is certainly the most efficient filters for your tank. This is due mainly because they are able to filter out chemical particles that are too minute for other filtration systems to remove. We are speaking of contaminants so minute that they are invisible to the unaided eye. Biological Filtration Systems function by letting the "good" microorganisms to flourish inside the aquarium; these microorganisms absorb and process the waste excreted by the fish changing toxic by-product into harmless by-products allowing the proper substance equilibrium in the tank. This is very important to the wellbeing of the fish in the tank.

The undergravel filter (UGF) controversy has been raging for years. As modernization of aquarium filtration products advances, many aquarists feel the need for a UGF has long past. However, some still feel you can't run your aquarium without one. To help you make the decision of whether to use a UGF as a basic component or not, let's start by understanding what the purpose of the UGF is.
The two basic things you want in your aquarium is a good filter media base for strong biological filter growth, and clean, clear water. The UGF is a plate type filter that is designed to pull water down through a media base (substrate) that sits on top of the plate, trapping particles in the media as the water passes through it. The surface area of the substrate acts as your biological filter base. A UGF is run by an air pump and air stones, or some types can be used with a powerhead, power filter or canister filter. We feel that these filters can be very effective, but are best used in tanks 10-55 gallons in size.
we had 16-ten gallon fish-only tanks, 15 of which had UGF's in them, and from our experiences with using them, they worked just fine. The trick is to keep the media clean, via a regular maintenance schedule. If a UGF is not maintained properly the media builds up an accumulation of detritus and other organic matter, which in turn contributes to a build up of high nitrate levels. Another factor is that underneath the filter plate, dead spots can form. This opens the door for the growth of unwanted bad types of bacteria that may contribute to poor water quality in the long run. The key to success when using a UGF is maintenance. With proper UGF care these negative factors are greatly reduced and should not present a problem.

Here are some pointers to help insure that your UGF runs properly:

1.)The media base needs to be thick enough to trap the particles, but not so thick that it defeats the filtering process. A layer of about two inches of fairly coarse material should be sufficient. If the media is too fine it will clog the filter plate, and if too course it won't trap the particulates as it should.

2.)Make sure you have sufficient air/water flow in all areas under your UGF. Dead spots will allow bad bacteria to grow, as bad bacteria grows in oxygen depleted environments.
Be sure to use an air pump that has sufficient volume to draw the water through the media and UGF plate.

3.)Use a hang-on-tank type power filter or canister filter as a pre-filter to help remove particulates that are free floating in the aquarium water. This can help to remove and cut down on the organic matter that is drawn down into the media. No matter what type of pre-filter unit you use, be sure to clean or change the carbon cartridge, floss or sponge several times a week, or as soon as it starts turning brown. You can tell when it needs changing, the water flow rate begins to decrease noticeably.

Some UGF's are designed as reverse flow set ups. This type of UGF allows for back flushing of the area underneath the filter plate, which in turn can aid in simpler and more effective cleaning of the filter. As we have said before, get to know your tank and you'll be able to work out a regular maintenance routine that works best for your aquarium needs. Do your research on the various types of undergravel filters on the market, and how each works.

What Filters Work Best ?
Depending on the kind, purpose and dimension of your aquarium, you can decide from a diversity of capacities and forms of filters. A frequent choice is to utilize a power filter that can house all the various filtration elements commonly used in aquariums in combination with a UGF. It is also necessary to consider the type, size and number of your fish when you pick a filtration system for your tank. Particularly in the case of a tank with tiny or baby fish, sponge type filters are necessary as they protect the little ones from getting sucked into the filter. A combination of filters explained here will keep your aquarium water clean and your fish secure and strong.

Heating:There are many things that you need to do when you set up your aquarium. Depending on which type of fish that you have in your aquarium will depend on the temperature of the water. One of the things that you will require for your aquariums is an aquarium heater. An aquarium heater is a small device that is placed on the inside of the aquarium that controls the temperature of the water. It is important that the temperature is set correctly so that your fish are kept comfortable.
Are Aquarium Heaters Important?
Did you know that most tropical fish are cold blooded animals? Being cold-blooded means that they cannot control their own body temperature so they cannot keep themselves warm. Different types of fish also have different body temperatures so when buying your fish select ones that have the same type of temperature requirements otherwise you will find that some will die.
How Do I Know What Type Of Heater To Buy?
It all depends on the size and type of your aquarium and the type of fish you plan on purchasing. There are three basic types of heaters available. There is the aquarium heater that simply hangs on the side of the tank. The hanging types of heaters are the most basic heating unit and are okay for use in smaller aquariums.
There is also a submersible type of aquarium heater. This is the type of aquarium heater that is dropped into the water completely to heat and warm the aquarium. These are more convenient and more reliable then a heater that hangs on the side of the tank because it provides more consistent heat for the fish.
The heating cable system is also used and is commonly used in aquariums with live plants. This is the best aquarium heater because it provides continuous, even heat throughout the aquarium. It cost more money, but is a better heater than the other two types of aquarium heaters.
Since most fish are cold blooded and will need heating to ensure that they stay alive and live comfortably, an aquarium heater then becomes an essential item in most home aquariums. If your unsure of the type of heater is required for your aquarium then your local pet shop or aquarium shop is the best place to ask. 84 degrees is the minimum requirement for most tropical fish so the type of fish, aquarium size and plants will determine the type of heater you will need.

Power heads: coming soon!

Gravel & Aquascape: coming soon!

Air Pumps:Air pumps are generally used in aquariums for three purposes: 1.) To power an undergravel filter, 2.) to aerate the water and 3.) to power decorations, ornaments and designer air stones.

Their use for undergravel filters is necessary. Air is pumped via a slim tube and airstone to the bottom of the aquarium where it creates a tower of air rising back to the surface of the tank. The air takes with it water that comes from underneath the undergravel filter plate.

In order for water to get underneath the filter plate, it has to pass through the gravel bed where it is filtered before being drawn up the air tube with the air bubbles, returning to the surface.

The tower of water drawn from under the filter not only filters the water, but also aerates the water when the bubbles reach the surface and agitate the top of the water, increasing the oxygen uptake. (Full hoods on top of aquariums often hinder oxygen exchange. An air pump attached to some type of airstone will draw fresh air from outside the tank into the closed system under the hood.) Air pumps used for aeration also help to reduce the build-up of harmful gasses such as carbon dioxide which can stealthily lower the pH of your tank.

Fish must have a nice high oxygen content in the water. The beneficial bacteria (growing in the gravel bed) that process the water waste also depend on it. Without beneficial bacteria, the water would become concentrated with toxic chemicals.

Air pumps used for undergravel filters are easy to size. Most manufacturers size them according the size of your tank. If you are using the air pump for the undergravel filter alone, choose the size recommended by the manufacturer.

If you will expect your air pump to also power decorations, toys, or fancy aeration bubble wands, take that into account before you size it. Purchase a larger than recommended pump (at least one size larger than your tank) to accommodate the extra power needed for add-ons.

If you are using the air pump to power a protein skimmer, it must be substantially more powerful to get the most efficient skimming action. Some air stones such as wooden airstones need a significantly higher pressure air pump because their pores are so tiny that it takes more power to push them. The smaller the bubbles the better your skimmer will work, so wooden air stones are usually preferred for that purpose and a more powerful pump is needed to run them.

If your tank is very deep, purchase a deep-water air pump or a size larger than the recomended size for your tank volume. Deeper water requires more powerful air pressure.

Your pump's life and efficiency is greatly affected by the air stone. Change them and clean them frequently. If they get clogged, they will not put out enough bubbles and it will take more power to get air through them, straining the pump and reducing the efficiency of their operation.
Attach your pump outside the aquarium on the table or stand as close as possible to the tank. Use airline tubing to direct the air into the filter's uprights. Use an airline tubing splitter valve if you wish to direct some of th air to decorations.

Some people don't like the sound of an air pump disturbing their peaceful aquarium panorama. Choose the famous "Whisper" pump or consider a powerhead instead.