Aquarium Equipment and Information center

Freshwater Friends is a growing group of individuals that care for, breed and specialize in fresh water fish and aquatic inhabitants.
Our mission is to simplify and encourage more people to care for freshwater aquatic inhabitants due to our shared need for life....Fresh water.

To best understand the workings and needs of the basic freshwater fish tank, let us start with the basic set up and equipment needed to maintian your freshwater pets habitat.

(see our product reviews for more help on choosing you equipment)

The Tank:Size and material are very important in deciding the location of your tank and the types of inhabitants you will be able to house.
Genral rules calls for aprox 1 gallon for every inch of fish. For example - A single 6 inch fish will need No less then 7 gallons. It is the opinion of FRESHWATER FRIENDS LLC that no less then 10 gallons be used for a single fish including BETTA'S aka Siamese fighting fish.To due so would be inhumane.

It is most important to locate an area in the home or office that will support the weight of the tank and stand when fully filled with water.
Water weighs aprox 9 lbs per gallon, that meens that a typical 30 gallon tank when filled will be almost 300 LBS. This does not include gravel,rock,decor and fish weight.
Material is an important factor when choosing your tank considering the large varity of "tank busters" such as oscars and large pacu breeds.These fish have a history of exploding tanks from the inside.For fish such as these an acrylic or plexiglass tank would be best.
Glass is the most common of materials used in aquarium construction and all the types we discussed have pros and cons,and this will be a personal decision for you.
One factor to take in to consideration is that acrylic is lighter and will not break as easily.Acrylic also retains heat better than glass.On the other hand,acrylic will scratch and it does cost more then glass. Glass aquariums do not tend to scratch unless treated roughly,and they are less expensive than acrylic.However glass tanks break more easily,they tend to lose heat faster,they are heavier than acrylic and there is a slight greenish tint,particularly in the thicker glass of large tanks.However,with greenery in the tank,this green tint will blend quite nicely into the natural appearance.

You will also come across various shapes as well,triangles,tall cylinder style,bow fronts, and hexagonal are just a few off the top of my head. Shape will also dictate the location choices for your tank. For example a tall cylinder tank is wonderful for a coner room setting,while you typical rectangular tanks are wonderful wall accents. No matter the room or setting, you can achive the special look you are wanting.


The Tank Stand:There are many tank stands for you to choose from,but the main goal is to suport the full weight of the tank,rocks,water weight and inhabitants. We are talking in some cases THOUSANDS of pounds. The next goal is choosing decoritive or functional. Remember when choosing your stand that you will have air lines and power cords to run as well as the air pump its self so it is important to have a storage area for your assorted nets, equipment and chemicals.(locks should be installed or chemicals stored out of reach of children) Most prodution cabnits from retail stores will have these fetures.


Lighting systems:You need to check if there is good aquarium lighting. This is important for aquarium plants and the fishes.
If your aquarium has poor aquarium lighting, your colorful fish may not be seen properly and it will also cause it to fade and turn the shades to other colors. If you want to have good aquarium lighting, you can choose between fluorescent or incandescent light.
If this is your first time to set up an aquarium, trying out the light may be from trial and error because you need to check if the light matches with the environment of your aquarium. Try to see first whether it is too dark or too light, then you can start adjusting the lights.
If you have too much aquarium lighting, it might cause the water to look green. If you have little light, it might cause to inhibit plant growth. You may choose whether you want artificial light or natural light. You can even make a combination to see which does better in giving light to your aquarium.
If it is daylight, it will be fine to shut the artificial lights off but when the natural light goes out, you need to let light stand in the aquarium for at least 8 hours.
You can also use light colored bulbs for your aquarium lighting. This will give impact to the nice colors of your fishes and the colors may even be enhanced. If you want your aquarium lighting to give a good effect to your aquarium, use light from behind. This will show the best features of your aquarium and the plant growth will stay healthy too.
Start gathering the best light that you wish to put in your aquarium. After setting up a good lighting, you might never take your eyes of your aquarium. A lot of people will surely notice and appreciate your aquarium because of the aquarium lighting that you have installed.

Normal Output Fluorescent Lighting:
Also called Standard Fluorescent lights, these versatile lighting systems are the easiest way to illuminate an aquarium. Fluorescent light fixtures are a great choice for freshwater fish aquariums. The wide selection available for these easy-to-use, affordable, and energy-efficient light fixtures allows hobbyist to customize aquarium lighting. Use different bulbs to provide the right light for your aquarium inhabitants.

Compact Fluorescents:
Compact Fluorescents are higher light output versions of standard fluorescent light systems. Instead of single tube bulbs, compact fluorescent systems incorporate dual or quad tube bulbs for greater light output from a single bulb. A single compact fluorescent light fixture easily does the job of two standard fluorescent fixtures. This space-saving feature makes compact fluorescent systems a great choice when upgrading from standard fluorescent systems. Fortunately, compact fluorescent light systems are no more difficult to operate and maintain than standard fluorescent light systems. These self-contained lighting systems are easy to operate and since they are a type of fluorescent light system, it has all the benefits of fluorescent lighting. For example, low operating cost, lower heat emission, and a wide selection of bulbs with color temperatures ideal for freshwater applications.



Metals Halides:
Metal halide systems are high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems popular among many advanced aquarium hobbyists. Metal halides are comprised of a main glass bulb with a series of wires connecting another glass bulb (arc tube) within it. When electricity passes through the arc tube, the gases and metal salts contained within the tube produce light. Unlike other high intensity discharge lighting systems (e.g., sodium or mercury vapor lights), the light spectrum and the color rendition produced by metal halides is suited for aquarium use. Metal halide fixtures are ideal for aquariums, with inhabitants that require high lighting conditions. Metal halide systems are also used for very large aquariums or aquariums deeper than 24 inches where other lighting systems may not be powerful enough to provide adequate illumination.
Choosing the right lights for your aquarium is a matter of personal taste and your inhabitant's needs. However, be sure to always use lighting systems specifically designed for aquariums. The right lights help you enjoy the beauty of your aquarium & keep your inhabitants healthy.


Filters:Probably the most crucial part of an aquarium is the filter. Aquarium filtration systems take away damaging chemicals and contaminants from your fish's habitat and preserve the quality of the water. Aquarium filters will work well only if they are uncontaminated and so they need to be cleaned and maintained frequently. They are very significant as the life of the beautiful fish elegantly adorning your aquarium depends heavily on the water quality. Known brands available today offer quality filters to suit most kinds of aquarium. There are three types of aquarium filters available on the market today. Let's check them, one by one.


Mechanical Filtration Systems:
A mechanical filter functions by catching filth and waste particles that are present in the aquarium water in fibrous pads (filter elements) located in the filter itself. Gradually, these particles will accumulate in the filter element and obstruct it. Prolonged presence of these particles is toxic to the fish. This kind of filter system should be cleaned frequently. Mechanical filters have filter elements that are typically made of polyester. These filter elements can also come in an assortment of materials such as foam sponge, filter wool and pressed fibers. You can choose any of the assorted models offered on the market external or internal filter systems.

Chemical Filtration Systems :
The most common kind of chemical filters are the charcoal filters. This type of filter has activated charcoal which is useful at taking away most common contaminants from the aquarium water. Charcoal filters function by letting the activated charcoal soak up all the unsafe substances floating in your tank's water. One more common type of filter utilized in home tanks is the carbon filter; these filters are very good at eliminating big quantities of contamination and function very well when used together with mechanical filters. But it is vital to keep in mind that any type of filter will only work well when it's clean. It is necessary to test the filter from time to time and replace its components when they get too filthy.

Biological Filtration Systems :
Biological filters also called Bio-filtration systems, is certainly the most efficient filters for your tank. This is due mainly because they are able to filter out chemical particles that are too minute for other filtration systems to remove. We are speaking of contaminants so minute that they are invisible to the unaided eye. Biological Filtration Systems function by letting the "good" microorganisms to flourish inside the aquarium; these microorganisms absorb and process the waste excreted by the fish changing toxic by-product into harmless by-products allowing the proper substance equilibrium in the tank. This is very important to the wellbeing of the fish in the tank.

The undergravel filter (UGF) controversy has been raging for years. As modernization of aquarium filtration products advances, many aquarists feel the need for a UGF has long past. However, some still feel you can't run your aquarium without one. To help you make the decision of whether to use a UGF as a basic component or not, let's start by understanding what the purpose of the UGF is.
The two basic things you want in your aquarium is a good filter media base for strong biological filter growth, and clean, clear water. The UGF is a plate type filter that is designed to pull water down through a media base (substrate) that sits on top of the plate, trapping particles in the media as the water passes through it. The surface area of the substrate acts as your biological filter base. A UGF is run by an air pump and air stones, or some types can be used with a powerhead, power filter or canister filter. We feel that these filters can be very effective, but are best used in tanks 10-55 gallons in size.
we had 16-ten gallon fish-only tanks, 15 of which had UGF's in them, and from our experiences with using them, they worked just fine. The trick is to keep the media clean, via a regular maintenance schedule. If a UGF is not maintained properly the media builds up an accumulation of detritus and other organic matter, which in turn contributes to a build up of high nitrate levels. Another factor is that underneath the filter plate, dead spots can form. This opens the door for the growth of unwanted bad types of bacteria that may contribute to poor water quality in the long run. The key to success when using a UGF is maintenance. With proper UGF care these negative factors are greatly reduced and should not present a problem.

Here are some pointers to help insure that your UGF runs properly:

1.)The media base needs to be thick enough to trap the particles, but not so thick that it defeats the filtering process. A layer of about two inches of fairly coarse material should be sufficient. If the media is too fine it will clog the filter plate, and if too course it won't trap the particulates as it should.

2.)Make sure you have sufficient air/water flow in all areas under your UGF. Dead spots will allow bad bacteria to grow, as bad bacteria grows in oxygen depleted environments.
Be sure to use an air pump that has sufficient volume to draw the water through the media and UGF plate.

3.)Use a hang-on-tank type power filter or canister filter as a pre-filter to help remove particulates that are free floating in the aquarium water. This can help to remove and cut down on the organic matter that is drawn down into the media. No matter what type of pre-filter unit you use, be sure to clean or change the carbon cartridge, floss or sponge several times a week, or as soon as it starts turning brown. You can tell when it needs changing, the water flow rate begins to decrease noticeably.

Some UGF's are designed as reverse flow set ups. This type of UGF allows for back flushing of the area underneath the filter plate, which in turn can aid in simpler and more effective cleaning of the filter. As we have said before, get to know your tank and you'll be able to work out a regular maintenance routine that works best for your aquarium needs. Do your research on the various types of undergravel filters on the market, and how each works.

What Filters Work Best ?
Depending on the kind, purpose and dimension of your aquarium, you can decide from a diversity of capacities and forms of filters. A frequent choice is to utilize a power filter that can house all the various filtration elements commonly used in aquariums in combination with a UGF. It is also necessary to consider the type, size and number of your fish when you pick a filtration system for your tank. Particularly in the case of a tank with tiny or baby fish, sponge type filters are necessary as they protect the little ones from getting sucked into the filter. A combination of filters explained here will keep your aquarium water clean and your fish secure and strong.

Heating:There are many things that you need to do when you set up your aquarium. Depending on which type of fish that you have in your aquarium will depend on the temperature of the water. One of the things that you will require for your aquariums is an aquarium heater. An aquarium heater is a small device that is placed on the inside of the aquarium that controls the temperature of the water. It is important that the temperature is set correctly so that your fish are kept comfortable.
Are Aquarium Heaters Important?
Did you know that most tropical fish are cold blooded animals? Being cold-blooded means that they cannot control their own body temperature so they cannot keep themselves warm. Different types of fish also have different body temperatures so when buying your fish select ones that have the same type of temperature requirements otherwise you will find that some will die.
How Do I Know What Type Of Heater To Buy?
It all depends on the size and type of your aquarium and the type of fish you plan on purchasing. There are three basic types of heaters available. There is the aquarium heater that simply hangs on the side of the tank. The hanging types of heaters are the most basic heating unit and are okay for use in smaller aquariums.
There is also a submersible type of aquarium heater. This is the type of aquarium heater that is dropped into the water completely to heat and warm the aquarium. These are more convenient and more reliable then a heater that hangs on the side of the tank because it provides more consistent heat for the fish.
The heating cable system is also used and is commonly used in aquariums with live plants. This is the best aquarium heater because it provides continuous, even heat throughout the aquarium. It cost more money, but is a better heater than the other two types of aquarium heaters.
Since most fish are cold blooded and will need heating to ensure that they stay alive and live comfortably, an aquarium heater then becomes an essential item in most home aquariums. If your unsure of the type of heater is required for your aquarium then your local pet shop or aquarium shop is the best place to ask. 84 degrees is the minimum requirement for most tropical fish so the type of fish, aquarium size and plants will determine the type of heater you will need.

Power heads: coming soon!

Gravel & Aquascape: coming soon!

Air Pumps:Air pumps are generally used in aquariums for three purposes: 1.) To power an undergravel filter, 2.) to aerate the water and 3.) to power decorations, ornaments and designer air stones.

Their use for undergravel filters is necessary. Air is pumped via a slim tube and airstone to the bottom of the aquarium where it creates a tower of air rising back to the surface of the tank. The air takes with it water that comes from underneath the undergravel filter plate.

In order for water to get underneath the filter plate, it has to pass through the gravel bed where it is filtered before being drawn up the air tube with the air bubbles, returning to the surface.

The tower of water drawn from under the filter not only filters the water, but also aerates the water when the bubbles reach the surface and agitate the top of the water, increasing the oxygen uptake. (Full hoods on top of aquariums often hinder oxygen exchange. An air pump attached to some type of airstone will draw fresh air from outside the tank into the closed system under the hood.) Air pumps used for aeration also help to reduce the build-up of harmful gasses such as carbon dioxide which can stealthily lower the pH of your tank.

Fish must have a nice high oxygen content in the water. The beneficial bacteria (growing in the gravel bed) that process the water waste also depend on it. Without beneficial bacteria, the water would become concentrated with toxic chemicals.

Air pumps used for undergravel filters are easy to size. Most manufacturers size them according the size of your tank. If you are using the air pump for the undergravel filter alone, choose the size recommended by the manufacturer.

If you will expect your air pump to also power decorations, toys, or fancy aeration bubble wands, take that into account before you size it. Purchase a larger than recommended pump (at least one size larger than your tank) to accommodate the extra power needed for add-ons.

If you are using the air pump to power a protein skimmer, it must be substantially more powerful to get the most efficient skimming action. Some air stones such as wooden airstones need a significantly higher pressure air pump because their pores are so tiny that it takes more power to push them. The smaller the bubbles the better your skimmer will work, so wooden air stones are usually preferred for that purpose and a more powerful pump is needed to run them.

If your tank is very deep, purchase a deep-water air pump or a size larger than the recomended size for your tank volume. Deeper water requires more powerful air pressure.

Your pump's life and efficiency is greatly affected by the air stone. Change them and clean them frequently. If they get clogged, they will not put out enough bubbles and it will take more power to get air through them, straining the pump and reducing the efficiency of their operation.
Attach your pump outside the aquarium on the table or stand as close as possible to the tank. Use airline tubing to direct the air into the filter's uprights. Use an airline tubing splitter valve if you wish to direct some of th air to decorations.

Some people don't like the sound of an air pump disturbing their peaceful aquarium panorama. Choose the famous "Whisper" pump or consider a powerhead instead.